The Cambrian Way walkers have embarked upon their trek along the Cambrian Way, in memory of loved ones who were cared for by Salisbury Hospice. Every step along their journey is helping raise funds so that the hospice can continue its compassionate palliative and end of life care.
Read below to follow along with the second week of the walk, through an account written by the group. The walk concludes with week 3, taking place 5th to 12th September. To find out more about the Cambrian Way fundraiser, please click here.
Day 8 – 11/07 (Sat) Carrying on in the Brecon Beacons, there is much evidence of old quarries; part of our path was made up of an old tramway leading to miners cottages – now a hostel used by many cavers, and passing the mining train station of Craigynos. From the village of Glyntawe it was a steep climb to reach the long and impressive ridge of Fan Hir with great views to the east, including some of the peaks we’d previously walked. The ridge continued (up to 802 m) round west with more views of two lakes far below us, before a long descent with rolling hills and valleys to our pick-up point.
Day 9 – 12/07 (Sun) A mixture of remote hills and lower farmland and woods. Navigating was tricky, leading to a missed footbridge and some soggy feet while crossing one of numerous streams. While pausing in Myddfai, we found a church filled with characters and animals from Wicked and the Wizard of Oz, from a recent village event. We finally reached our goal, the rather lovely Llandovery in the evening, staying in the King’s Head with a welcome pint and meal.
Day 10 13/07 (Mon) Leaving Llandovery, we headed for the River Tywi and then River Doethie, both filled with boulders and quite low, just right for paddling some sore feet and shade from the intense heat. The path ascended along almost invisible paths and miles of shoulder – or head – high bracken, with some brambles thrown in for extra fun! It seemed an endless fight until we got to Ty’n-y-cornel, our hostel for the night. It’s one of Wales’ most remote, with no phone signal and only a satellite phone; we were the only guests.
Day 11 – 14/07 (Tue) Another wild and remote day, passing Nantymaen, site of a lonely phone and post box leading on to Garn Gron: at 541 m it’s not that high but there are spectacular 360 degree views looking back as far as some of our first week’s journey, the sea, and some of what awaits us in the final third. The halfway mark of the whole route is shown by a special waymark and bench further on. Then we passed through Strata Florida, the remains of a Cistercian Abbey, also used as a base by Henry IV against Owain, before being dissolved by Henry VIII. One more climb took us to an area of high lakes and reservoirs, including Llyn Teifi and Llyn Egnant.
Day 12 – 15/07 (Wed) Starting from the lakes, we soon reached Claerddu Bothy, another extremely remote place, with no electricity or cooking facilities and beds made of planks, though there is plenty of graffiti left by prior travellers! More tricky navigation led us to Cwmystwyth and then down to the well-known Devil’s Bridge; as well as the three-layered bridge there is also an old AA phone box and an arch where the original road stood, built to celebrate the accession of George III.
Day 13 16/07 (Thu) Beyond Devil’s Bridge, we crossed the small-gauge railway line, passing through planted forest and reaching an old lead and zinc mine next to the River Rheidol. This was followed by a punishingly steep climb through more forest before coming down to the village of Ponterwyd.
Day 14 17/07 (Fri) After crossing the A44 near the deserted Dyffryn Castell Hotel there was a very steep climb to get to the high ground, followed by a much gentler climb to reach the top of Pumlumon (Plynlimon). At 752 m, this is the highest point of the Cambrian Mountains and offers great views, particularly of lovely Nant-y-Moch Reservoir. Staying on the ridge, we passed the source of the River Wye (unmarked) and then the source of the River Severn (with a post and some paved paths), a series of muddy pools surrounded by oddly eroded peat.
There are also several stone boundary markers with the inscription WWW 1865, thought to have been put there by a wealthy landowner. More difficult navigating led us to the calm Bugeilyn and Glaslyn lakes. While assailed by numerous horseflies, we descended into Dylife where we enjoyed a welcome pint in the Y Star Inn. This gave us some energy for the final 3 miles through thistly fields.
Day 15 18/07 (Sat) Today’s route was delayed by a tyre puncture as we left our bunkhouse in Machynlleth (complete with its own skeleton and a piano with the keyboard removed). Facing another hot day, we walked through a mixture of mainly dry high bog and forest, once again trying to evade horseflies before coming down to Commins Coch. We then crossed over the River Dovey and under the railway line, finishing with a climb to high fields and woods in complete peace and calm.
Day 16 19/07 (Sun) Our final day of this section saw us pass through a mixture of good tracks and barely visible paths, mainly used by sheep. We climbed up to a windfarm at Mynydd y Cemmaes, following a ridge down to a road and crossing up to a path through a plantation that was completely overgrown with gorse, from which we emerged feeling like pincushions! Moorlands and fields, deserted farm buildings, spoil heaps and the remains of mine buildings led us to a steep downhill, littered with slate stone until we finally reached Dinas Mawddwy. Fortunately there was a pub where we could celebrate, rest our sore legs and enjoy a restorative beer and pub grub. A longish drive home meant we reached home about 4-5AM, ready for a good sleep!
